Cabaret au Lapin Agile

Le Lapin Agile, painting by Raphaël Toussaint

painting by André Gill

Last Sunday, we spent an evening out on the hill of Montmartre with friends from out-of-town. After dinner, we paid a memorable visit to the Cabaret au Lapin Agile.

Perhaps the most famous cabaret in the world, it came by it's name in a strange, random way. The Cabaret had been around since the 1850's and had been called the Cabaret des Assassins until 1875 when André Gill painted the illustration of the rabbit jumping out of a sauce pan. The painting was placed outside the Cabaret and became its insignia. The Cabaret came to be called Le Lapin à Gill after the painter, and later morphed into the play on words Lapin Agile.







There is a long, storied history of the many visitors to Lapin Agile during the past 150 years. Over 100 years ago, it was a popular hangout for artists including Picasso, Modigliani, Apollinaire and Utrillo. The Cabaret was and remains located at the heart of artistic Paris on a narrow cobblestone street and situated on the hill of Montmartre.

painting by Pablo Picasso, Au Lapin Agile

Early in the 20th century, Fréderic Gérard (aka Frédé) took over the operation of Lapin Agile. He knew his clientele well, and would often accept paintings in exchange for drinks. This painting Au Lapin Agile done by Pablo Picasso in 1905 was part of such a settlement with Frédé, who is depicted in the background playing his guitar. In the foreground are Picasso himself and his lover. It hung in the Cabaret until 1912 when Frédé was forced to sell it - for about $20. It later sold for $41 million in 1989, and I believe currently is located in the Metropolitan Museum in New York. A replica now hangs inside the Cabaret.

Le soleil se coucha sur l'Adriatique
(Sunset Over the Adriatic)

   So what happens when some of the most creative minds in Europe hang out and drink together at the Lapin Agile? Here is but one example:
   Frédé kept a donkey named Aliboron (shortened to Lolo), who was a favorite in the neighborhood. In response to a new wave of artwork becoming popular at the time, a paint brush was tied to Lolo's tail, and Le soleil se couch sur l'Adriatique was created at the front door of the Lapin Agile. The artist was billed as Joachim Raphaël Boronali. Please note that "Boronali" is "Aliboron", slightly rearranged. Exhibited and then written up by the Salon des Indépendants, the painting received high praise, described as the first of the new "Excessivism Movement". The painting sold for 400 Francs before its true origins were revealed. For the full story, go here.

Frédé and Lolo

So off we went! I was surprised how little the place resembled a Cabaret from the outside. However, inside it was dark, funky bar and night club! The entertainment was musical, and all in French. However, it was not hard to get the gist of much of the humor. And there, behind the piano player, hung the Picasso, with the whole scene looking much as it did in 1905.

We were amongst the early arrivals at 9 PM. The Cabaret began to fill up as the pianist played wonderful jazz in the background. As the place filled up, some members of the audience were getting into it and singing along with the  pianist. The transition took a few minutes, but eventually it became clear that this segment of the audience was the entertainment as the sing alongs became full-throated performances. They were just wonderful! Most memorable to us was the animated performance of Fais Moi Mal Johnny written by Boris Vian - the story of a young lady looking for a hot time who gets more than she bargained for.